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Extreme Steam
By: Michael Rhodes
July 15, 2007
 | | Michael Rhodes |
Having photographed railways all over the world since 1972, I never imagined what adventures this hobby would lead me into. When in 1992, I saw the pictures of Peter Skelton taken in Zhongwei, China, I decided I would try and visit China just once if possible. I was a father of two, surgical chief resident, and relatively homebound male. I saw Peter’s pictures and asked the "domestic authority" if I might explore the possibility of visiting China to photograph "real steam." In October that year I made my first visit to China; the first of 25 visits, all to photograph steam. I imagined at the time it might be my only visit, but I was fortunate to team up four years later with Vernon Murphy and Steve LeCheminant on a trip to Yebaishou, in China and form the "Extreme Steam Team." A combination of two great travelling companions and professional progression has allowed a further 23 visits, the last of which was just a few weeks ago (see www.sy-country.co.uk).
Now of course the question is, where did the phrase "Extreme Steam Team" come from?? It was born on our fourth trip to China in January 1998. We had chosen a particularly brutal winter during which to visit the Jitong line for the second time. Daytime temperatures never ventured above minus 20 degrees Celsius, with dawn often as low as minus 35 degrees Celsius. On several days we decided to walk the whole length of the pass from Reshui to Jinpeng, starting one day at the summit and heading west, on another heading east. It was bitterly cold and we all collected icicles (see the attached picture of us at the summit with left to right Li Weishu [our guide], me in the dreaded red down jacket, Bob Avery and then Vernon Murphy).
The red jacket protected me from frostbite, when both Vernon and Steve LeCheminant succumbed to quite bad frostbite. As a surgeon, I was glad as I needed my hands! On the other hand photographers did complain about the colour. After a day walking down from Shangdian to Reshui, we decided our next day should be more sedate and spent mainly in the bus.
Picture the scene, five photographers in all, recovering from a 20 kilometre hike the previous day, in temperatures colder than a domestic freezer. Lulled into a false sense of security by the warmth of our bus, we all jump out to capture the freight crossing the road, just a couple of kilometres west of Reshui (see attached image).
Bob Avery removes his gloves with great excitement and places his hands on the base plate of his aged Minolta SRT 101 SLR. It’s so cold his right index finger freezes to the top plate, which means when he eventually frees it and presses the shutter, the train has almost passed and his shot is at a jaunty 45 degree angle. The rest of us make a triumphant, "thumbs up" after capturing what we hope will be an excellent image. Suddenly the most distressed cursing and cussing imaginable comes from our right hand side. Bob looks to be destroying his cameras as he repeats the opening lines from "Four Weddings and a Funeral" (watch it if you haven’t- its typical English humour!). He thinks he’s missed the shot because of frozen fingers and expresses a wish to go home immediately and give up railway photography for life!
Calm is restored by food and a cleansing ale or two. Plans are made for the next day. We hike the line again above Reshui and get trapped by a storm with winds in excess of 50 kph. The temperature drops below minus 30 degrees at noon and with wind chill its lower than minus 70 degrees Celsius. I decide that I cannot remain safely on the hillside as I have lost touch with my fingers and feet. Vernon and Steve remain to capture a freight from Daban which is still an hour away. I get back to the Post Office Hotel in Reshui and run a hot bath (fed by the local hot springs). As I lie there and thaw out a stomping along the corridor alerts me to Steve and Vernon’s return. Steve stomps into my room and utters the immortal words "Bugger me that was extreme steam." As I hear him from the bathroom, I reply – "You know what, that would be a great book title." And so our books were born.
Since then we’ve organised a further 23 trips to China. They’ve all been memorable in their way. We’ve made great friends, especially the Australians and been recognised and greeted like long lost friends by enthusiasts from all over the globe. The sun is setting on Chinese steam, the administration are hell bent of ridding the country of steam by the all-important 2008 Olympics. There are still great spots at Jalainur, Jixi, Sandaoling, but they are all in decline. We were very fortunate to get to China when we did and even more so to make such good friends and all in the pursuit of that elusive, imaginary goal, THE PERFECT RAILROAD PHOTO!!
Copyright © Michael Rhodes. All Rights Reserved.
This article has been viewed 10474 times.
User Comments on this Article:
Posted by Chris Kilroy on July 16, 2007:
What a great read! Humorous, insightful, and very entertaining. Thank you for sharing, Michael!
Posted by George W. Hamlin on July 16, 2007:
Very enlightening and enjoyable!
Posted by Dean Kaplan on July 16, 2007:
Pretty awesome article Micheal. I enjoy all your steam shots from China.
Posted by chris davis on July 16, 2007:
Great reading, Michael. I get the shivers just reading it. Keep your eye on Bob, he has a short fuse!! Chris, UK.
Posted by Bob Avery on July 17, 2007:
My recollection is slightly different - it wasn't that my fingers were frozen to the camera, it was simply that I couldn't feel the shutter, and pressed at the crucial moment onto plain camera body instead of the shutter button! By the time I'd located the button with numb fingers the shot of the milennium had been lost forever, and my outburst had passed into gricing folklore...... I was mad at the time at failing to capture what would have been a perfect image, but of course it's only a hobby and I can laugh about it now.
Posted by Bret Stringer on July 19, 2007:
Fantastic account. Thanks for sharing!
Posted by Matthew J. Ryan on July 20, 2007:
Great story Michael! The account is humorous, and vivid. Also, I think we can all relate with the wonderful memories trackside, in very extreme conditions.
Posted by Stephen Jones on July 20, 2007:
A very enjoyable, and humourous, read! Thanks for sharing!
Posted by Wade H. Massie on July 28, 2007:
I truly admire the dedication you've all shown in pursuing Chinese steam!
Posted by John Day on August 4, 2007:
Thanks for the explanation of where the title to your books came from, Michael, and for the inspiration provided by your Extreme Steam Team, leading directly to my (mere) three trips to China to sample main line steam on the Jitong and elsewhere before it was Too Late. Also for introducing Li Weishu's name to the rest of us--a master photographer in his own right and an excellent guide and host to those fortunate enough to have used his services.
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